Article: THE ICONIC RED LIP

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Sep 5, 2024

THE ICONIC RED LIP

Unpopular opinion in the midst of a current red-dye controversy…
“The beetle was a marketing strategy."

(I said, what I said.)

AND...THE STRATEGY WORKED.

By now you have seen the viral photo of two red beetles, declaring “BEETLEJUICE, BEETLEJUICE, BEETLEJUICE” (uncanny timing, I might add) which was followed by several dramatized paragraphs of how Red Dye in foods, and cosmetics, when listed as “carmine” is in fact the (and I quote) “thousands of crushed up bugs.”
( I shall spare you the details.)

The entire story leads you to believe that your iconic red lipsticks, glosses, stains, and shades are made from the entire beetle.

That, is not entirely true.

And how, pray tell, can one make an empowered decision with only part of the truth?
You cant.

For years, I found the word “carmine” repulsive, having long heard (and told) the story of carmine as “crushed up bugs.” With the absence of the actual process, our imagination arrives at one conclusion: “Carmine is the blood, sweat, and tears of the entire bug.”

And the solution: “In a state of disgust you shall never again wear a red lip.”
(tosses hair dramatically and exits stage left)

I followed the trail to see where the most reputable source(s) stemmed from and I stumbled upon articles hosted by, and written by, cosmetic companies. The most common being vegan cosmetic lines.

Think…about that for just a moment… the blogs were hosted by, and written by vegan cosmetic companies.

Dramatic, graphic, and rather grotesque words laid out details of carmine's process. And of course, their solution for you: a (and I quote) “bug-gut-free red option.”

Marketing…fascinating, isn't it?

Curious, and on a mission, I scoured through their ingredient list with abandon (which was no small feat, and took several clicks into the depths of their website on what could have rivaled a Lost Ark Adventure series) and alas, there it was, THEIR sources of red:
Lake Dye - Red 40 - Allura Red

Now, it made sense.

CARMINE OR RED 40?
Mes Amies, we have two ways to arrive at a true Red.
And now that I've had my dramatic run-on above, let's explore the science, free from opinion, shall we?

CARMINE VIA VRAI IQ
in truth, intelligence

Carmine, also labeled on INCI as: cochineal extract, crimson lake, or carmine lake, is the red color which is extracted from the shell of the cochineal beetle (in ancient times, the Kermes scale insect was used in a similar process.). The beetle, which is found on cactus plants, is collected, prepared and sun-dried. Once ready, it is milled into a fine powder for the extraction phase.

The powder is mixed with either an ammonia or sodium carbonate solution. This process isolates the carminic acid from other cochineal beetle elements. Carminic acid is the pigment that goes on to produce carmine. The insoluble matter that is extracted is then removed by filtering and alum (potassium alum, a mineral salt) is added to precipitate the red aluminum salt.

Carmine has cleared all cosmetic analysis testing for toxicity and is considered safe, with no links to any specific health risks.

WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT

RED 40 VIA VRAI IQ
in truth, intelligence

Labeled on INCI as Red Lake, Red40, Allura Red, or CI 16035 is derived from coal tar, or petroleum. Red Dye is known as a “certified color additive” which unlike exempt color additives, it must undergo FDA certification every time a new batch is produced to ensure it meets regulatory guidelines and standards and that it does not contain additional colorant additives or chemical agents.

WITH EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT: Coal tar, or petroleum derived (although filtered, and refined for Cosmetic applications under stringent guidelines) Red 40 specifically, is processed via the chemical reaction between two types of sulphonic acids. It has been concluded as the safest of synthetic red dyes. However, studies have concluded that there is potential for serious adverse effects if consumed in large quantity, as Red 40 contains benzidine.

VRAI IQ: When there is no significant exposure or application to the skin, especially in applications where the formula is limited to hair or lashes, Red 40 can be considered for use in certain rinse-off application products. Where you will not find Red 40 in VRAI products: lip color, eye shades, or blushes.

IN SUMMARY

If you have not refined your lifestyle to a vegan standard, you may want to consider a second look at Carmine, having now, a better understanding of the true process with a neutral opinion.

If you are honoring a vegan standard, of course carmine as an ingredient is not for you and so the decision comes from better understanding the concerns around the

class of Red 40 synthetic dyes and use of the product you are considering.

VRAI IQ
In truth, intelligence.

VRAI's offerings include both a curated selection of products using without exception ingredients, and with exception ingredients. Summaries are provided for every ingredient using science based research and education, such as that above, so that you can choose appropriately.

We have long come to believe that ingredients, regardless of their creation and or refinement process remain in one particular category.

While I understand not all are ready to cross the bridge from beliefs to truth; I always remain understanding and respectful that we all have agency of discretion.

I will forever remain anchored in beauty, without compromise.

You have my word.

xo,
Melissa

VRAI IQ

Written by MELISSA POEPPING

1 comment

As always…thank you for your research and sharing. Your integrity is such a blessing to us all.

Peggy Hays

September 14, 2024 at 12:16 pm

THE ICONIC RED LIP

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